#greece Archives - Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship

Miss You Greece, Be Back Soon!

June 1, 2016

I’m home. It feels strange to call any place other than my little apartment in Athens home now, but this is it. Coming back home has been difficult, more so than adjusting to my home abroad was. Little things like going to the store and not bagging my own groceries, the severe lack of Greek food, and inability to walk anywhere I need to go serve as a constant reminder of how different my life was abroad. I miss walking to Kekko’s each morning to get my coffee, stumbling upon ruins throughout the city and speaking Greek to anyone and everyone in my general area. I didn’t realize how much I had come to love the culture and people I’d come to know until this point. Needless to say, I’m experiencing a heavy dose of reverse culture shock that for some reason I didn’t think would affect me. I think what makes leaving more difficult though is the uncertainty of it all. Here, back home with my family and friends I’ve known for years, I was sure to return. Leaving Greece though, a country that I’d come to love and appreciate immeasurably, I can’t be sure that I will go back. In a sense that makes it far more special that I had been able to experience such a way of life at all, but also far more heart breaking.

When I first got back, readjusting was overwhelming. As time goes on though, I’m incorporating some of the things I enjoyed in Greece into my daily routine. The last time I went out to eat with my family, we dined together taverna style, sharing different appetizers and main courses among the table, and they really enjoyed it. They, like I had, realized that eating in that way allows you to taste a variety of foods rather than just one, wastes less food (someone will want to finish what you won’t) and is noticeably cheaper. I’ve continued my Greek lessons on my own and hope to make it my third language so that when I do return, which I plan on doing in the next year, I can speak in entire conversations with everyone I come across. For now, I’ll be working as the student coordinator of an organization that I love, the Democracy Project, and returning to tutoring my students. I know I’ll continue to miss Greece and the many friends I made there, but I’m also very grateful to be home with my family and friends from home. Senior year is sure to fly by between two senior theses, law school applications, and working, and before long hopefully I’ll be visiting my favorite city again. Until then, I feel incredibly blessed to have had this experience, and grateful to Gilman for making it possible. Until next time, Θα είμαι πίσω σύντομα, Ελλάδα

Spring Break and Final Exams

May 16, 2016

It’s hard to believe my semester here is coming to a close. In exactly nine days, I’ll be back home in the United States working my summer job, preparing for the LSAT and senior year, and undoubtedly missing Athens. Thankfully though, it’s not yet time for me to say a somber goodbye to this wonderful country I’ve come to love and call home. Before that came my last adventure during spring break.

My friend Alex and I, like nearly everyone else in the College Year in Athens program, decided to take advantage of the eleven day Easter break we were given to travel around Europe and see some of the Greek islands. We first visited a close friend of mine studying abroad in Rome, where she showed us the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, the Vatican, and more. By more, I mean gelato. So. Much. Gelato. I regret nothing. I have wanted to go to Italy ever since I was a little girl, and it was everything I imagined and more. A bustling city with breathtaking ruins popping up ever so often, it’s reminiscent in many ways of Athens. We took a day trip to Florence where we saw the Duomo, learned how to haggle in the outdoor leather market (I was pretty good at negotiating, surprisingly enough), and ate the most amazing clam pasta ever.

The view from the Vatican duomo.

After leaving Italy, Alex and I spent a few days on Santorini Island, arguably one of the most beautiful islands of Greece. We stayed in Thira, close to the sea overlooking the rocky cliffs that drop to the ocean, and even visited the black sand beach in Perissa, which was unlike any beach I’d ever seen before. From there we took a ferry boat to Mykonos, where we stayed for 3 days in an Air BnB with two other friends for Easter. It’s true what’s often said about Mediterranean waters–it’s the clearest blue you will ever see. The beach near our Air BnB was phenomenal, and almost empty because we arrived just before tourist season began. On Easter our host Sissy invited us to have lunch with her family, and it was absolutely amazing! The hospitality and kindness of Greek people never ceases to amaze me.

Easter lunch with our Air BnB host and her family.

The view from the Caldera in Santorini.

Now it’s back to reality. Final exams start this week, and the Greek language exam is my first. Of course, Greek is also the test I’m most worried about, but I’ve been studying non-stop, so hopefully an A is in my future! Besides that I have a philosophy paper, Greek myth and religion paper, and two essays for my Greek political science class to write. Stress is very much a state of being at the moment, but I’m staying motivated to finish this semester out with a strong GPA. Sleep can be caught up on later! The next time I’ll be writing for this blog will be from home, and there will probably be tears involved. So for now I’m going to tackle my exams and appreciate my last week in Greece as much as possible!

Me in Mykonos.

An Inside Look at the Refugee Crisis

April 27, 2016

I think that throughout this blog, I’ve made it clear how much I have come to love my host country. Greek culture, tradition, and people fascinate me, and my gradual assimilation into the ways of this country (albeit far from complete) has granted me the experience of a lifetime. Inherent in this culture is a love of people, and a general respect for all humanity. With the crisis at hand, refugees have been pouring into Greece from many different countries, most known, Syria and Turkey. While many other European countries have closed their borders to the refugees or set a cap on how many they will accept, Greece continues to aid those who are able to make it here, even in this period of economic hardship for themselves. Knowing this before I studied abroad attracted me to Greece, and now that I am here I have had the unique opportunity to volunteer with some refugees first hand.

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A group of refugees in their tents at Piraeus Port.

There are several organizations here to help the refugees, from assisting with food and clothing to playing with the children and helping them become familiar with English. I chose to work with Caritas Hellas, a non-governmental organization located in Omonia not far from my home in Pangrati. Caritas Hellas has a soup kitchen and distributes clothing, toys, and medical information about women’s health. The area I work in depends on the day. When there are many volunteers I may end up in the clothing room, distributing clothes to those who need it. When there are few, the clothing room is closed and everyone helps in the soup kitchen. The managing volunteers do most of the cooking, and my job may be to help slice bread, fill up glasses of water, or when the refugees are let in, distribute the food or help to clean as they leave.

When there are many volunteers, we spill over into the next section, the clothing room. The problem with this is that when volunteers fail to come, those in need are unable to get clothing. When in the clothing room we go through bags of donations, sorting them into different racks by the ages of the children who can wear them. This makes things a little difficult, because ages can range for people within the same clothing size. When the clock hits 12 and mothers start to come in with their children, it can become very confusing and very crowded very quickly. This may be the most challenging part of my volunteering, besides the language barrier. At this point, I can get by with my Greek, but Arabic and the various other languages spoken by the refugees are beyond foreign to me. When helping a mother find clothes for her daughter she was trying to explain that she needed the shoulders covered. In hindsight I should have known this, but I didn’t understand. It took several minutes and a lot of gesturing for me to understand exactly what it was she was asking.

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Me in the clothing room at Caritas.

Nevertheless, the appreciation and kindness of most of the people there who receive help is astounding. To see people so grateful for the bare necessities they need just to survive is a great reminder of how luck works in the world–the opportunities you have are greatly correlated to the circumstances you’re born into. As someone from a first world, power country where human rights are guaranteed, realizing that others have to fight, flee, or die for what I take for granted is incredibly humbling. It’s easy too, to feel guilty when looking back on the things I worry about–my classes, future, etc.– when watching people who have left everything behind, carrying their tents on their backs with their children, asking for help wherever they can get it. It’s been a great realization though, and a reminder to count my blessings that I will forever appreciate. Although my impact is small, I’m glad to be in a position where I can offer a helping hand when needed.

From Paris to Macedon!

April 13, 2016

This past week has been incredible. As much as I enjoy the classes at my study abroad program, College Year in Athens (CYA), and feeling at home in Pangrati, there’s nothing like being able to travel to other areas and experience the utterly unfamiliar. Last weekend myself and a friend of mine were able to go to Paris to visit another friend studying abroad there. It’s easy to think that a city so celebrated in film, books, and more could be over-hyped and as a result, disappointing in reality. However, Paris instead turned out to be one of the most amazing cities I have ever seen. The architecture on every street had something miraculous to offer; a truly beautiful city. As a suburban girl used to living closer to forests than cities, that’s saying quite a lot. Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower were far more incredible in person than I had ever imagined them to be. We were also able to see the Louvre Museum, and it was gigantic. In the four hours we stared incredulously at the art before us, we were only able to see a little over one of the four floors of artwork. To see the entire museum in a day would be absolutely impossible. The perfection of Parisian food rivaled the beauty of the city itself. Each and every dish I ordered over our three day stay–from French onion soup to macaroons, meat and cheese platters, and cheese fondue– was exceptional. In short, I’m already looking forward to the day I can return!

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Notre Dame.

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Parisian dining (French onion soup!!)

Once back in Athens, we were only home for one day of classes before CYA began our next school-wide trip to Thessaloniki, the area of northern Greece that was previously Macedon. The city is famous for its university, one of the best in Greece, and the students who make up 20% of the city population. As a port city, ships can be seen passing by day and night, and people are constantly gathered outside reading, playing music, and talking to friends. The atmosphere of Thessaloniki is far more young, vibrant, and calming than Athens thus far. I have to say I still love Athens just a little more; it’s home, and nothing beats home.

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Living out my philosophy major dreams with Aristotle.

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Graffiti art in Thessaloniki.

We’ve spent the past few days learning about the importance of how the town of Thessaloniki was planned and talking about the numerous Byzantine structures still standing sporadically throughout the town from the period of Roman Christian rule. The detail in many of the Christian churches constructed from that period has miraculously survived, and is still used in a modern sense. Between this learning experience in Thessaloniki, and my long weekend in Paris, the past week has undoubtedly made me realize the degree of appreciation I have for learning in an experiential manner, and solidified my gratitude for the way CYA runs our program.

The Magic of Carnivale and Delphi…And Midterms

March 25, 2016

Spring is here! At least technically. I only know that because the calendar on my phone tells me so. The weather recently gives no indication of spring whatsoever. It’s been fairly cold and for the most part rainy as well. But that hasn’t stopped the Greeks from celebrating Carnivale! The weekend before last, the streets were filled with music, people dancing, and all sorts of festivities. During this time of celebration, everyone donned their most out-of-the-ordinary costumes, from clowns, goth kids, and Fred Flinstone. On the following Monday the mood abruptly shifted to one of a familial nature, when everyone is supposed to rid their fridges of meat and usher in lent with feasts of seafood. Just stepping outside my apartment building, the scent of fish, fried calamari, and everything good under the sun (or sea) spread through the air.

The next weekend, College Year in Athens (CYA) took us on a trip to Delphi, which is said to be the most holy site of the ancient world. Home to Apollo’s temple, which he leaves only in the summer months to care for Dionysus, thousands would flock to it nine times a year to have their oracle ready by the Pythia, a priestess of Apollo with the ability to answer any question she is asked. We were able to see the temple of Apollo where the Pythia would speak her fortunes, as well as see the various treasuries setup by the Greek city states so they could jump in line and see her first. The view was incredible, and it was easy to see why that spot held so much spiritual value to the Ancient Greeks.

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The Athenian treasury at Delphi, where the ancient Greeks demonstrated their dedication to the god Apollo. If they were lucky, they could skip the line to visit Pythia, who would read her oracle.

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A sphinx, the guardian of the underworld.

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The Umphalos, which marks Delphi as the “center of the universe,” and Panhellenic site of worship for Greeks.

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The ceiling of the Ossios Loukas monastery, which still operates today.

Aside from the excitement of carnival and the serenity of Delphi, there are also exams. Somehow I thought that just by being in Greece and living the opportunity of a lifetime would make them less stressful. Suffice to say, it did not. Exams will never be your friend. Ever. No matter where you go. I’m the sort of person who over-prepares and worries all the same. On the bright side though, after this week of little sleep and much anxiety, Easter will be one week closer! And I’ve been looking forward to the parades, midnight service, and egg cracking games since my first day here! That’s all for now, but I’ll have details about Thessaloniki and the Island of Crete next time.

Until then,

Destiny

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All of my books as I prep for midterms.

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The beautiful mountains of Delphi.

A Crabby Catastrophe

March 11, 2016

Well, I’ve passed close to a month and a half studying abroad in Greece and I think it’s safe to say that at this point, the honeymoon period is over. Not to say I don’t love Athens and the experience I’m having here, I think I’ve just gained a more realistic understanding of the city in quite a few different ways. For example, today I had one of the most unpleasant encounters yet. For some background, I absolutely love cooking. It de-stresses me, I love the artistry of combining flavors, and I enjoy feeding people. So when I went to the grocery store today and saw that fresh blue crabs cost 4.50 euro per kilo, I had to buy some. Unlike in the U.S. though, here in Greece they only sell them alive, without rubber bands on their claws. So, when I got up to the cash register I set a thin plastic bag of clawing crabs on the counter in such a way that the cashier wouldn’t have to touch the crabs. Unfortunately for her and I both, she picked the bag up anyway. A crab grabbed her finger, and when she started speaking rapid Greek I couldn’t figure out what was happening until I realized she was bleeding and the guy behind me in line had to unclench the claw from her hand. I was thoroughly mortified, and felt absolutely terrible for the cashier (she was close to tears at this point) whose day I had undoubtedly ruined. The entire store was staring at me and I all but ran out the door as soon as I had paid. The victim was okay, but needless to say I didn’t feel bad when I turned her attackers into a topping over fettuccine.

Fresh blue crabs for dinner.

Beyond that, the language barrier has been giving me trouble, since for some reason after I say a few words in Greek the people here get very excited and quickly continue the conversation far beyond what my limited vocabulary can grasp. I guess these experiences are what everyone meant when they warned me of culture shock.

It’s not all bad though, not by any means. Recently College Year in Athens (CYA) took us on our first school wide field trip to Peloponnese, and it was absolutely beautiful. We spent five days traveling through Nafplio, Sparta, and Olympia. Nafplio was my favorite. Surrounded by ocean on three sides, the views were gorgeous. I’m an ocean girl at heart so this was paradise in a scholarly setting.

Enjoying the view!

In Nafplio we were able to see an incredible cave people once inhabited from the Bronze Age as well as elaborate Mycenaean graves.

The Mycenaean graves at Nafplio.

The cave at Nafplio.

In Olympia we saw some of the greatest altars built for the gods, an incredible museum with statues of Zeus and the Olympians in action, and the site of the original Olympic games. All along the entrance of the Olympic stadium were small statues built by athletes in the Olympics who had cheated- an ancient wall of shame, if you will.

So at this point it seems that I’m beginning to really settle into life here, taking the good with the bad just like anywhere else.

Until next time,

Destiny

Classes, the Acropolis, and Aegina Island

February 19, 2016

It’s hard to believe that it’s been only two weeks since I last blogged here. The time is passing so quickly, but I’d say that’s a good sign! I have quite a few updates on what I’ve been up to lately (as I’m sure you’re all dying to know). So we’ll start with the entire purpose of this immersive experience — my classes.

I have class Monday through Thursday here, starting with my Modern Greek language class from 11:00-13:00 Mondays and Wednesdays. I went into this class thinking that it wouldn’t be incredibly difficult given that I also speak Spanish and have never really had issues in language, but immediately got smacked in the face with reality. Greek is a very difficult language. Not something you simply pick up on given the new alphabet, cultural norms that qualify how to speak and when, and conjugations. The people who live here are very forgiving when I try and fail in casual conversation though, and seem to appreciate the effort.

Next, from 3:30-5:10 Mondays and Wednesdays I have my political science/history class, Contemporary views on Greek Politics and Society. That’s a mouthful. And the length of the title just begins to explain the complexity of Greek history. I’ve only had classes for 3 weeks thus far and the sheer quantity of changes the country and culture has gone through are baffling. The professor, Dr. Gandolfo, gives an incredible account of this and is involved in a lot of ways with the political situation here first hand.

My Greek Myth and Religion class meets every Tuesday and Thursday from 3:30-5:10, and so far it’s been phenomenal. Dr. Stewart not only knows so much about the myths of old, but has excavated a lot of the religious sites, so her stories of finding different relics and what those show are pretty eye-opening and interesting in general.

Last I have my philosophy class, “The Good Life,” Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5:20-7:00. I usually don’t do well with night classes and even as a philosophy major had some doubts about how engaged I could force myself to be once my internal clock is telling me it’s way past time to stop thinking for the day, but I absolutely love this class. Dr. Mylonaki teaches in a style different than any philosophy professor I’ve had back home and constantly keeps us guessing.

As for my extracurricular activities, I’ve done quite a lot lately. I’m taking a marble sculpting workshop on Tuesday nights that’s been one of the best choices I’ve made here so far. I love art, but have never tried anything of the sculpting variety (besides clay) so it’s incredibly difficult, but also enjoyable. The past couple of weekends my friends and I have ventured around Greece where we first went to the Panathenaic stadium, which is a stone’s throw away from my apartment and was actually built in the 1800’s, then to the Acropolis. The views from the top are absolutely breathtaking. We were able to see the open air stadium and the temple of Athena.

Panathenaic Stadium

View of the Parthenon

The only downside to this trip is that since the economy here is still at such a standstill, pickpocketing and berating tourists for money in exchange for small toys or trinkets is popular here. A little girl forced a withering rose on me then demanded 3 euro for it, which I gave. All in the experience, as they say. My friends enjoyed laughing at my vulnerability though.

The next weekend we went to Aegina, a small island only an hour away by ferry. The island was beautiful. The water was completely clear (as you can kind of see in the pictures) and there was a perfect view of the mountains in the background of the next island. We went up a mountain to visit the temple of Aegina and looked down on the entire island and the ocean surrounding it. There were even small caves at the top (which were blocked off by wire fences for safety). It was an impeccable experience, and to be sure, an amazing weekend.

Aegina Island

First Impressions of a Stunning Athens

February 15, 2016

Hello! My name is Destiny Reyes. I’m a third year Philosophy and English major at Rollins College, and up until now I’ve always lived in Florida. Now I’m spending the next four months of my life studying what most intrigues me in Athens, Greece, a place I am quickly coming to regard as my home and possibly one of the most beautiful places on Earth. In the weeks before I departed, I couldn’t quite grasp the fact that I was leaving everything familiar to me behind and setting off on my own for the first time ever. The morning of my flight however, an unbelievable feeling of anxiety finally set in. I’d been packing, unpacking, and repacking my bags, just to finish then fret over whether or not they were too full to fit carry-on measurements, and unpack them again. Until that day I’d only really felt excitement- excitement of leaving the country for the first time, seeing where my favorite philosophers taught and exploring the ancient Greek ruins. On that morning though, I could only think of how much I’d miss my family and friends and whether I’d made the right decision to study abroad at all. I’d know very few people in the program, and would soon meet my roommates and over 60 other students whom were all total strangers to me.

Once I arrived in Athens after two very long flights however, many of my fears dissipated. When I first landed with one of my roommates who had flown out with me, we happened to run into several other students in the program also picking up their baggage. Once we found our arrival gate, one of the professors waiting for us gave us the keys to our apartment, ushered us in pairs into cabs, and sent us on our way. At first, the city seems much like any other, akin to New York City, with small shops on either side of main streets, topped off by tall apartment buildings. But after even a few hours exploring this city, it’s obviously so much its own entity. Unlike in America, there is graffiti virtually everywhere. But it doesn’t lessen the beauty of the buildings; instead it adds to the character of the area, with political quotes and symbolic illustrations. Many of the people who live here celebrate it, and even have favorite artists whose work they recognize. The people are also genuinely connected to one another. Strangers greet each other on the streets, and shop owners exhibit an incredible amount of patience while I practice ordering in Greek. There are stray dogs and cats everywhere, but they’re well fed and cared for by everyone in the neighborhood. The contrasts between my new home and the world I’ve grown up in are stark. There are no huge supermarkets like Wal-Mart or quiet little suburban homes lined up all in a row. The culture here is incredibly different, and I’m constantly reminded of that in subtle ways, such as the event of holding up entire lines waiting for groceries to be bagged, then realizing customers do that themselves. Or when I waved at a waiter to bring the check, then panicked, realizing that a palm out hand gesture in Athens is the equivalent of the middle finger in the States. Thankfully our server was used to American students, and knew what I meant. Or could simply tell by the rush of embarrassment on my face. Either way, little adjustments are under way.

Classes have started this week, but I’ll wait until next time to tell you all about those, along with my adventures to the ruins and (hopefully) hiking Meteora!

Until next time,

Destiny Reyes

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