Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship

Sana in Trinidad & Tobago

Cross-Culture Shock: Returning to the U.S. from Trinidad & Tobago

Rewind back to January 2013. I climbed into the sweltering heat of Trinidad, yanked off my sweatshirt, and peered into a blinding sunlight the likes of which I had not seen in a long while. The taxi driver pulled up to the curb and began loading my baggage into the trunk. “Hop in de front chile,” she invited. I opened the door beside me- on the right hand side of the car- and was surprised to see a steering wheel attached to the dashboard. “Ya not drivin dis time,” she laughed and directed me to the seat on the opposite side. Six months later I return to Maryland, USA and find that I am now struggling to remember the correct driving procedures. A left turn through an intersection seems all wrong. I walk on the opposite side of the sidewalk, try to climb up a down escalator, and hold on to the left side of a railing, bumping into people walking in the opposite direction.

The racial makeup of Trinidad and Tobago is vastly different from that of the United States. My first shock upon arriving at the airport in Atlanta, Georgia was caused by the racial uniformity of the people milling about the airport. Trinidad and Tobago is a culture made up of Afro-Trinidadians (of African descent) and Indo-Trinidadians (of Indian descent). On the rare occasion I would run into a Caucasian Trinidadian, but generally they had roots in Europe and it was not often that I met a Caucasian Trinidadian who lived in Trinidad (many of them were only there to attend UWI).

While the United States refers to itself as the ‘melting pot’, many areas are very concentrated racially. The city in which I returned to was another shock to my senses. After spending months in the company of mainly Afro-Trinidadians and students from other Caribbean backgrounds, I was suddenly thrust back into a city that is demographically 90% white and only 3% black— a complete feeling of vertigo!

The USA has a rich culture to offer, if we look hard enough. Trinidad and Tobago has a rich culture, which we can see and feel without having to actively seek it out. I miss seeing houses of a million different colors, shapes, and sizes. I miss the open air shacks, the dorms with windows that never close, and the strange shades of colors chosen for each part of a house- none of which matched the others. Flying over the USA, I was again reminded of the feelings of conformity to one standard as I peered through the plane windows at the suburban homes, all following one color scheme.

I miss walking to the Tunapuna market for food on a weekend morning, hearing music blasting whether it was 8 AM or 8 PM, soca blaring from the speakers of cars or steel pan drums beating out a tune from the nearest church. Trinidad and Tobago is a proud culture, driven by their love of music and dance. Soca music draws in armfuls of instruments that dance together to make a joyous tune to which you can shake every muscle in your body! Back in my city at home, I hear music blare out the car windows of the occasional teenage driver, but shopping malls and grocery stores do not take part in the tradition of music. Here, music scares away the older customers rather than inviting them to shimmy in the doors.

Nevertheless, I am ecstatic to be  home to the delicious food. Having a food allergy, it is a relief to be back in the USA where I can find any food imaginable at the grocery store… back to a culture that takes pride in eating as much as possible! I also have taken for granted, in the course of my life, the ease with which I have access to goods and services. In Trinidad and Tobago, I had to travel several towns over, to a small mall in the north corner of the capital city, in order to find a store that would fix my camera. In the USA, it is a simple matter of of driving down the road and there are innumerable shops available to help you with every need. A chain like Wal-Mart does not exist in Trinidad and Tobago. Instead, there are seven separate stores you must visit in order to achieve the same shopping wholeness that one trip to Wal-Mart allows us.

At the end of the day, the most tangible differences are the accents and the public transportation. The suburban area in which I reside nearly lacks all public transport, the only option being a public bus that drives through a few times a day. Trinidad and Tobago relied on the maxi-taxis, wild buses jam-packed with people, driving on several routes for a mere $3 TT (under $0.50 USD). Nothing can compare to the “sing-songy” lulling accent of the Trinis, welcoming you aboard a taxi or into a shop.

As I adjust to the USA, my heart longs again for the lush forests, the clear water, and the rich people of Trinidad and Tobago.

Reevaluating Goals

A few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to join a tour alongside the western coast of Trinidad and Tobago. We climbed aboard a bus and chugged into the heart of Chaguanas, stopping at two famous Hindu sites: An ashram dedicated to Lord Hanuman and The Temple in the Sea. The walls, floors, ceilings, and each doorway trailed colors, intricate patterns rising into the sky. Hindu gods of every shape, size, and color from the Ramayana sat peacefully in the center of the temple, greeting visitors. Yet, even having been in Trinidad and Tobago for several months, I feel I have not even begun to understand the depth of the people here. Hinduism runs deeply within a large portion of Trinidad and Tobago’s population, but it is a religion about which I know very little.

I have also been exposed to the practices of the Spiritual Baptists. In particular, I watched a ritual of purification as a group of Spiritual Baptists bathed in milk and the waters of Maracas Waterfall. I have watched a group of men in traditional Rastafarian gear gather to enjoy each other’s thoughts on a sunny afternoon at the botanical gardens. I have seen trinkets celebrating the voodoo rituals (less common, but certainly established) in Tobago.

Despite my fascination will all these practices, I have not had enough time to fully learn about each of the groups that bring their own flavor to Trinidad and Tobago’s rich cultural stew. Still, I know that seeing these new rituals has opened my eyes to the fact that the world holds so much that I do not yet know. Knowledge is my greatest academic, professional, and personal goal now. I have a passion to learn about all these practices, and perhaps be able to value and utilize them in better understanding the patients with whom I will work in the field of medicine.

I feel that I will not grasp the full impact of my study abroad experience on my understanding of the world until I return to the United States and absorb the changes. Embracing the different cognitions and practices around the world is undoubtedly a great help in any career, and will help to build stronger relations between myself and others I meet. I am now, more than ever, eager to learn!

Culture Shock in Trinidad & Tobago

Certainly, the first stage of entry into a new country (and new culture) is that of excitement. Trinidad and Tobago enveloped me in a variety of scents, the endless music on the streets through all hours of the day and night, and the hustle and bustle of the transportation system. It first dawned on me that I was no longer at home when I waved down my first maxi-taxi, climbed aboard, and perched myself beside a man napping in full Rastafarian gear (robes, headpiece, elaborate hair, and all). What a relief it was to walk off campus and encounter three different roadside street carts with juicy, brightly colored fruits calling your name. It was certainly not America!

The second stage is that of irritation and frustration as the differences sink in. This stage has only occurred to me in relation to food. As someone who is intolerant to gluten (found in wheat, rye, barley, oats, and spelt grains), it became difficult to find foods that I could eat without feeling ill. Trinidad and Tobago certainly has curried options, as well as callaloo, rice, fresh fruits, and channa. However, a KFC or Church’s Chicken can be found on nearly every corner. Fried foods, bake, doubles, roti, and pastries are a big part of the food culture. In my attempt to enjoy those aspects of culture, I found myself torn and frustrated.

After finding myself sick on multiple occasions, having attempted to try the local cuisine (trust me, it is difficult to turn down fresh fried and seasoned shark on Maracas Beach), the only solution seemed to be to hunt down foods that I could eat. Thus began my food travels, a great saga of cultural cuisine crafting. This story ends joyfully (and with a fully belly) in the heart of Port of Spain at The Panyol Place, a small family-owned Venezuelan restaurant. Venezuelan culture can be found dispersed throughout Trinidad and Tobago, certainly influenced by the vicinity of the large South American country. For this, I am grateful!

For the most part, I could not imagine being homesick while I hiked to the peak of mountains overlooking the rain forest  found myself under a natural arch with the beautiful clear blue waters swirling beneath my feet, and stood amidst a group of dancers throwing colored powder into my hair during Phagwa! Still, there have been times when I have become frustrated, strolling back and forth down the market street or through the mall, unable to find something I need. I realize that in the United States, particularly in the area of my home, I am incredibly spoiled by the ease of attaining something. I do not need to search far and wide or call multiple stores to find what I need, because everything is within grasp. Here, and in most other parts of the world, a little more effort is required!

I recently read the following quote:
“When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable.”

I am lucky to have understood this mindset prior to arriving in Trinidad and Tobago. With a flexibility of mind, it is possible to seamlessly adapt to any cultural differences, however initially frustrating. I feel I have accepted Trinidad and Tobago as the new norm, at least within the context of how I am currently living. I can only imagine how many differences I will notice upon my return to the U.S.A!

*Note: this graph on Culture-Shock shows the stages that many of our study abroad participants experience.  It seems like Sana is going through stage 4 (developing strategies to deal with difficulties and differences and adapting to the host culture).

Culture Shock Graph

Lay of the Land in Trinidad & Tobago

While some countries are known for their grand architecture and visitors traverse the pathways of the city to photograph the statuettes perched on every corner, Trinidad and Tobago is not one of these countries. Yes, these islands have a few beautiful architectural pieces, especially in Port of Spain, but the main attraction is the lush greenery. The surrounding nature invites you in and drives you into the realization that the untouched world around us is the greatest miracle we could ask for.

Over the last few months, I have been grateful to receive this knowledge straight from the source, the forests. Trinidad and Tobago offers an endless variety of trails ending in bubbling rivers bursting with life, rainforests teeming with a rainbow of birds, and waterfalls you have to crane your neck to catch sight of! In Tobago, especially, the beaches are awe-inspiring, with light sand and clear water, sparkling an aquamarine in the sunlight.

However, despite all this beauty, Trinidad and Tobago has certainly not reached a country-wide environmental consciousness. Specific parts of the country— such as the highly tourist-populated beaches of Tobago, the nesting sites of the leatherback turtles in Trinidad, and the popular hiking trails — have come ahead of the rest in encouraging recycling and environmental safety. Nevertheless, the majority of the country does not seem particularly discouraged by the thought of tainting the beautiful landscape with crumpled cans, used bottles, and non-biodegradable items.

Often, I find myself carrying a trash bag or an empty soda cup for blocks without seeing a single garbage bin. Even around my dorms and on our campus, it is difficult to find recycling bins and trash cans on every corner as I am accustomed to at home. I realize that in America I feel that I am a particularly environmentally aware person with a strong sense of friendliness for our plant friends. It seems that I may not be as aware as I believed myself to be. In America we barely need to raise a finger to find a recycling bin ready for our plastics, or a trash can ready for our Styrofoam  In Trinidad and Tobago, the processes have not yet taken place to set up a country-wide recycling system to spread awareness about conservation.

Although people are educated about the necessity of recycling and the consequences of littering, I notice that without the proper availability of resources to aid in this (such as recycling bins every block or trash cans on each street corner), it is impossible to expect people to walk miles with their trash in their hand, simply to lay it alongside the sidewalk when it becomes too much of a burden!

On the other hand, students at UWI take great pride in stepping out and helping with environmental cleanups when asked. This leads me to believe that most people are searching for a way to be more conscious (in all truth, no one enjoys kicking trash out of the sidewalk during an afternoon stroll), but struggling to find it! When the Matura Bay Cleanup fliers went out, advertising a volunteer opportunity at 6 AM on a Saturday, an unbelievable amount of people went! At my university, with a slightly larger population than UWI, we could not have even a third of the participation that I found here. Students worked in the early hours of the morning, picking trash off the bay that leatherback turtles most often nest on in Trinidad.

I know the importance of being environmentally aware. This week, I was lucky enough to experience a rare event— the nesting of the endangered leatherback turtles. Around midnight on Friday, from our campfire on the beach, we watched as a turtle slid onto shore and made its way slowly up to the softer parts of the sand on Paria Bay. This 2,000 ton creature found an easier path up the sand to dig a nest in which to lay over 120 eggs. Why? Because this beach was clean of trash! However, a local relayed to me the problems of littering on the beach. The baby turtles, already unprotected and highly vulnerable, hatch and must find their way to the water. With so much garbage and litter clouding the beach several more turtles die than they should, as their path is obstructed.

While Trinidad and Tobago could certainly improve in regards to cleaning up litter and increasing the availability of recycling and trash bins, one thing I would definitely bring back home with me is the health conscious behavior. Yes, this climate offers an advantage to those seeking year-round hiking adventures. The United States has a decent climate for the pursuit of outdoors adventure for at least 7-8 months of the year, and yet the majority of social activities take place inside! I enjoy how Trinidad and Tobago pays great attention to the natural beauty of the world around us and encourages a healthy set of physical activities involving the fresh air and lush foliage.

My Trinidadian Family

The first thing I felt was the heat. The very moment I stepped out of the air conditioned airport and into the sweltering heat of Trinidad and Tobago, I yanked off my backpack and freed myself of the thick, black sweatshirt. The breeze and the sunlight felt amazing on my skin after four months of chilly weather in the United States.

The second thing I felt was the hunger. After a 6:00 AM flight (for which I awoke before the first tendrils of sunrise), a flight delay, a dash from one terminal to another, and another flight with no sustenance save for the sugary sweet beverages on board, I felt famished. By the time I put sheets on my new dorm bed and changed into more weather appropriate clothing, my stomach felt like a bottomless pit.

Cue my lucky interaction with another student in Milner Hall. As I have mentioned before, Milner Hall is a huge dorm on the north side of campus with an amazing feeling of community. There are four blocks within Milner Hall, each with their own block pride. I live on I-block, a co-ed building with the liveliest bunch of people! Shortly after my arrival at the UWI campus, I found myself wandering through the Cafe (an open game room and study area in the center of the Milner courtyard) and exploring the area.

I paused to watch a large group of barefoot boys play soccer (more commonly called football) in the courtyard. They were all light on their feet, doing tricks I had only seen on television. One boy was sitting on the sidelines, waiting to jump in. He immediately engaged me in conversation, without any hesitation or the uncomfortable conversational boundaries we often encounter in the USA. When I mentioned my incredible hunger and my lack of local cuisine knowledge (i.e. where to find food), again without pause he said, “After I play in the game, I’ll check you.”

Not too long after, Glen (as this friend has come to be known), found me in my room and we wandered off into the night. Trinidad and Tobago are beautiful islands with a diverse population of locals. Despite the general kindness and calm of the place, it is certainly not a safe area for anyone to walk alone (whether male or female). In the descending darkness of the campus, Glen took me into the central area where the food courts are located. Unfortunately, it was late on a Saturday evening before the semester began, so the campus dining locations were closed.

Instead of giving up, Glen offered to take me to Curepe. Curepe is one town over from St. Augustine, the main campus, and offers a more populated area with a variety of food options. We scurried over to the bus route, which began my introduction to the public transportation system in Trinidad and Tobago. The bus route is a two-lane highway on which maxi-taxis zoom back and forth. Glen held up two fingers to indicate we were looking for a maxi with two available seats. After a few minutes of being driven past, a maxi screeched to a halt before us and we climbed inside. For a few Trinidad and Tobago dollars (TTD, called ‘tee-tee’), the maxi-taxi zipped through traffic and into the heart of Curepe.

It was not until we entered a fast food restaurant that I realized Glen had already eaten his dinner. He had come all the way to Curepe simply because of my hunger!

Although I only see Glen a few times a week now, each time with casual conversation in passing, he made a big impact on me within the first few hours of my Trinidad and Tobago arrival. I suppose what I had expected was a community of students similar to the ones at my university, who are undoubtedly kind-hearted but without the unexpected altruism I have seen here. Here, I find that there is no fear of strangers or acquaintances, and the usual boundaries are torn down. The openness and generosity I have witnessed in Trinidad and Tobago is certainly something I hope to bring back to the United States of America.

This week, I will be initiated as a Milnerite: an officially recognized member of the Milner Hall community. In our pledge, we promise to do all in our power to make the hall a beautiful, welcoming place for ourselves and each other. “For Milner, Together, We Are One!” Although I do not stay with a host family in Trinidad and Tobago, I have found a makeshift family who will help me smack mangoes off the trees in our backyard, teach me to make chow, and challenge and support me all at once.

The Trials and Triumphs of Travel

“Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things – air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky – all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.” – Cesare Pavese

I feel that Cesare Pavese’s description of travel describes the quintessential backpacker, a situation that does indeed garner a lack of balance. People who are working their way through a country as nomads (i.e. briefly settling in a city until they have the flavor of the land on their tongues, then moving onward) do encounter the feeling that the world does not belong to them. They borrow resources as they go and hold on to nothing lest their baggage become too heavy.

However, in my case, I have arrived in Trinidad and Tobago with the intention of a long-term stay. My goal is to understand the land beyond the tourist view that one would see during a brief stay. I actually feel that I have the same access to comforts here that I might in my home. Initially, I experienced the brutality of travel whilst prying myself away from comfort and entering an unfamiliar place.

Yet within a week of my arrival, I felt completely at home. I feel that a great part of this has to do with my amazing dorm community in Milner Hall. “Milnerites”, as the official members of the dorm refer to themselves, have a strong sense of family. The pledge itself states the dedication to making this place “a home away from home”. Milnerites look after each other like brethren. I might come across someone I have not previously met, but as we are both living together in Milner Hall, we are now in the same social circle and conversation is easy. We share everything with each other and support one another in our endeavors. To all campus events, Milnerites carry a large Milner Hall flag to which we flock during times of distress or after the fete has ended. Together, we walk back to our dorm in the early hours of the morning, following the flag as it waves to us from the front of the pack.

I have never been in ownership of the air, the sky, the seas, or even my greatest dreams. These things are always shared with the rest of the world; they connect us to each other! Here in Trinidad and Tobago, I live in harmony with my fellow students. We share the skies, the air, the cafe, and the spaghetti strainers. We share compassion for each other!

Soca Soirees and Carnival Craziness

This week, I experienced my first taste of Carnival traditions, as tourists flock to Trinidad and Tobago, and the celebrations begin to climb toward the Mas frenzy on Monday and Tuesday!

On Friday, we ventured into Port of Spain for the Dragon Festival and a small traditional Carnival performance. The whole concept of Carnival and “playing mas” or masquerade is about an elaborate performance of mimicry and masks. Some say Carnival takes “time out of time” by emphasizing fluidity in the passage of time and releasing revelers and all participants from the pressing matters of real life. The characters seen in parades throughout the week are symbolic of the history of Trinidadian culture.
The Bookman (also, Gownman or Ruler) is a devil mas portrayal, surrounded by imps and beasts. He carries a pen and a book in which he writes the names of prospective souls for the devil. While I watched the Bookman do his waltz through the streets, I caught a glimpse of names in his book. Some I did not recognize, but the name “Christopher Columbus” was immediately familiar!

Jab “devil” Molassie “molasses” is one type of devil in devil mas. He carries a pitch fork and his body is smeared in grease, mud, or coloured dyes (in this case- blue all over)! His imps play rhythms on pan drums, while he wines and gyrates wildly, held back only by a chain.

The Dragon is the fire-beast from hell, bringing destruction to the streets. If the dragon comes across a pool of water in the road, the “holy water” being of Heaven leaves the Dragon frustrated. The imps taunt him and he must finally dance in submission and try with great effort to leap over the water.
J’Ouvert, a French word for “daybreak”, is the high-energy festival that officially begins the Carnival festivities. It starts with the first revelers parading in the streets, dancing to carefree soca, and throwing paint in all directions in the earliest hours of Monday morning. Bands ride on trucks with large speakers, blasting their music into the sunrise, with their hoards of dancers “chipping” in matching costumes.
Oil and mud are often used in addition to paint. These materials, opaquing people from head to toe, add to the feeling of freedom and anonymity in the dark hours of early sunrise. Time moves in a different way as you dance your way through the streets, collecting all the colors of the rainbow. While some people ventured out on Monday to watch the parades in Port of Spain, Trinidad, I recovered from a night without sleep. Monday is the day when the bands are focused upon, while Tuesday is the day of beautiful costumes, performances, and music!
Carnival has been a time for amazement and the removal of some misconceptions. I lost track of time in the pursuit of enjoyment. I truly began to understand some of the beautiful traditions in Trinidad and Tobago! I would return to celebrate these days in a heartbeat.

Overcoming Initial Anxiety – First days in Trinidad & Tobago

Good Day!

Today marks over one week of my stay in Trinidad and Tobago at the University of the West Indies. The warm breeze swirling through the windows and around my room, and the chattering parrots outside make it difficult to remember home in the USA! I do, however, remember my “travel crazies”, as I call them, before leaving. I tend to remain calm to a degree of laziness, dropping the occasional object into my suitcases. Then, the few days just prior to my departure, I succumb to the heebie-jeebies of traveling. Why should I be so nervous, when I have been looking forward to this trip for months?

I can tell you what I was not nervous about. I know the cuisine would be fantastic (Trinidad and Tobago has a beautiful mix of aromas in every dish! There are some African food influences, as well as a great deal of Indian, and some Chinese. This spicy food, with some of the world’s hottest peppers, invited me right in). I knew I would love the weather, because it is warm year-round and every bit of foliage is new to me. I knew my classes would be bearable, if not interesting, because psychology is fascinating in itself and even more so in another country! I knew communication would occur with ease, because English is the official language of the country.

My greatest anxiety came from the following thought: what if I don’t make friends?Well, such is not the case in Trinidad and Tobago. Within hours of my arrival, I met a variety of phenomenal people, all of whom went out of their way to help this anxious, hungry, travel-worn gal out.

It took me less than one day to realize that people in Trinidad are incredibly nice, beyond their call of duty. I cannot speak for the whole of the United States, but in my experience around America it seems that social interactions with strangers are often grudging. Even on my own college campus- if I am walking in a hallway, on the streets, or stepping into an elevator- it is a rare and wonderful moment when a complete stranger ventures a “hello” or asks you about your day.

In Trinidad and Tobago, it is rude to stroll past someone without a greeting. Every morning I dry my mouth out with “Good Afternoon’s” and “Good Day’s” on each block as I walk to the market or work my way to class! During my first year of university in America, I developed the “campus walk”. This is an extreme power walk that I have witnessed nearly everyone utilizing on campus in order to save time.

Here, on the other hand, time is perceived differently. The first day of classes, I wandered the UWI campus in a daze of confusion. My joy at the large calabash trees and the enormous, colorful caterpillars crawling across the sidewalk was only marred by the desire to find my class on time. I was making my way like my legs were on fire compared to the students strolling calmly around me. Anyone I asked for help with directions did not brush me away with an “I’m in a hurry”, but shared a smile and much needed aid.

The kindness and calm I have experienced in the last week is undoubtedly an attitude I would like to return with to the United States! I am guilty of the pretend-to-text-to-avoid-awkward-encounters move, and would like to step beyond that and offer a Trinidadian greeting and a cheerful smile to strangers and special friends alike.

Good night for now!

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF STATE BUREAU OF EDUCATIONAL AND CULTURAL AFFAIRS

The Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship Program is a program of the U.S. Department of State with funding provided by the U.S. Government and supported in its implementation by the Institute of International Education (IIE).

Copyright 2023 Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship Program. All Rights Reserved

Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Sitemap